HVAC Buying Guide Purchasing a new HVAC “Heating Ventilation and Air Conditioning” system for your home is a major home improvement project that should not be taken lightly. You will face crucial decisions along the way such as selecting the right contractor, type of system, as well as negotiating a price. There are many HVAC buyers’ guides available that focus on the fundamental principles of HVAC systems and how they work. However, most of those guides fall short when it comes down to the most critical question, how to buy the right HVAC system for your home. Use our HVAC buying guide in order to be fully informed on such an important home improvement decision. Since you will probably not install, repair, or perform the necessary maintenance procedures for your HVAC, this buyer’s guide will focus mainly on the basic principles of purchasing a new HVAC system for your home and the important questions you should ask yourself as well as your contractor before starting the project. Get Local HVAC Prices Here Types of HVAC Systems The list below represents the most common types of HVAC — forced air — systems and the basic principles of how they work.
Standard Central Air Conditioners & Furnace Split System. Heat Pump & Air Handler Split Systems. Heating Pump & Gas or Oil Furnace Split Systems.
Mini Split Heat Pumps. Boiler & Radiant Heat System & Air Conditioner. Geothermal Heat Pumps.
Electric Furnace & Air Conditioner Split System Central Air Conditioners. distribute cool air throughout your home using a circuit or series of connected ducts. Split systems — both an inside and outside component — are the most common types. Refrigerant circulates between the condensing and evaporator coils and the air is cooled as it passes through the evaporator coil. A blower assembly — fan and motor — provides the necessary circulation to distribute the conditioned air. Heat Pumps.
A is a variation of a central air conditioner. Heat pumps are capable of delivering both heated and cool air.
They work by transferring the inside heat to the outside during the summer months to cool the home, and extracting heat from the outside air or ground to the inside during the winter months to warm it. Heat pump systems are one of the most energy efficient systems available today.
Although a heat pump will cost you more up front, the energy savings realized over the first few years of its operation usually pay for the additional costs. Furnaces. A is part of the forced air family as well. There are various types of furnaces with the most common using gas combustion or electric resistance heat strips to produce the necessary heat.
Most are equipped with a blower assembly to distribute the heated air throughout the home. Since a furnace is only capable of producing heat it is sometimes retrofitted with a central air conditioner to provide cool air during the summer months. The Worst Approach When it comes to purchasing a new HVAC system, most consumers approach it as they would any other home appliance purchase. This is a critical mistake. To explain this further, we will use a new refrigerator as an example.
Homeowners purchasing a new refrigerator usually go to their local appliance dealer or home improvement center. They peruse the appliance aisles examining the many models, types and styles available before choosing one.
After talking to a sales clerk, they sign the check and accept delivery. The new appliance arrives; a deliveryman removes the box and packing material, rolls it inside and plugs in the unit. A refrigerator is a factory-finished product.
Meaning all the necessary adjustments, fine tuning and testing is performed at the factory. It is plugged in, and you walk away.
This is not the case with a new HVAC system. Although the components are fabricated at the factory, they must be assembled, connected, charged with refrigerant, tested and fine-tuned by your contractor, who is basically the last man on the assembly line. Finding a qualified contractor will ensure against a poorly installed system prone to failure, lowered life expectancy, land poor energy efficiency and performance. What all this means is that when it comes to purchasing a new HVAC system, your system is only as good as the technician or contractor installing it, which is one of the major points to take away from our HVAC buying guide. How to Choose an HVAC Contractor Now that we have determined how important it is to choose a qualified contractor in our HVAC buying guide for your project, it is time to learn how to find the right one for your installation. Familiarize yourself with the basic principles of HVAC, the basic terminology of the main components and how they work together to maintain your comfort levels. This will allow you to communicate with your contractor easier during the course of the job.
Compile a list of local HVAC contractors and read their references and reviews. Check with the BBB “Better Business Bureau” for listed complaints or lawsuits, check with your state and local building departments to verify they have the proper licenses and insurance required for your area. It does not hurt to ask around and get referrals from friends or neighbors who have had their system installed or replaced recently. Schedule estimates and interviews at a time when all decision makers are present. Ask the contractor about the necessary building permits and who is responsible for obtaining them.
If the contractor suggests you obtain the permit, watch out because the red flags should be waving. Although you can certainly obtain your own permit, having the contractor do it adds another layer of protection, as they will have to produce a valid contractor’s license with applicable insurance to obtain it. During the bidding process, contractors should calculate the required cooling and heating capacity of your home using a recognized method such as the ACCA’s residential load calculation Manual J, and Manual D for ductwork. This allows them to assess the necessary cooling and heating requirements on a room-by-room basis. If they fail to do this or simply try to sell you the same sized system, show them the door. Many variables can affect a HVAC systems performance besides room size including window and door quality, type of construction and the degree it is insulated. Your contractor should inspect and consider all of these areas when sizing the new unit as well as give you a print out of calculations, assumptions and ductwork design when applicable.
The contractor should verify any existing ductwork is adequate for the new installation. If he/she finds that it falls below industry standards or is incorrect, they should point out the problem and discuss avenues to correct it. This will increase the cost of the installation and should be included in the final estimate. Do not sign any contracts until you have interviewed at least three contractors and received written estimates from all of them. If they throw “this deal is good for today only” at you, consider that another red flag. After receiving the estimates, confer with your trusted allies and go over each one with a magnifying glass.
3d Hvac Graphics
Take into consideration the contractor’s appearance, personality and the level of experience and knowledge he/she conveys during the interview process. Replacing an HVAC System Many homeowners assume that they can replace their old system with a new one of the same size.
Although it is a possibility, it should not be assumed. Many variables are involved when sizing a unit. These variables could have changed since the old equipment was installed. Window and door replacement, deteriorating or inadequate insulation, landscaping and room additions can all affect the heating and cooling requirements. It could be that the last HVAC contractor miscalculated when they installed the old equipment. A quality HVAC technician will make their own determination with new calculations.
Efficiency Today’s HVAC systems require a minimum SEER “Seasonal Energy Efficiency Rating” of 13 and higher. The higher the SEER rating, the more efficient the system will be. In addition, more efficiency means more savings for you as the system will consume less energy. HVAC systems with the highest SEER ratings will cost you more upfront, however, the energy savings should pay for the additional costs in just a few years. Maintenance Maintaining your new HVAC system should be calculated in your budget. It is in your best interest to protect your investment by scheduling annual maintenance with your HVAC contractor. Some HVAC companies offer discounted labor rates for customers who sign up with their yearly maintenance programs.
Periodic maintenance keeps your unit running at peak efficiency and prevents unexpected breakdowns that can lead to costly repairs. Although most maintenance procedures require a trained technician, you can do your part by cleaning or replacing the filter as needed. A dirty filter restricts airflow, which puts undue stress on the system. The extra load will cause it to use more energy increasing your utility bill and shorten the life expectancy of the equipment.
HVAC systems have many parts and components. A poorly installed system will never meet its efficiency standards or reach its expected life span. So, the question remains, how do you buy the right HVAC system for your home? The answer is simple, choose the right HVAC contractor. In the end, it does not matter which brand you buy or how much you spent, your new system is only going to be as good as the contractor who installed it. Now that you’ve read through our comprehensive HVAC buying guide, you should be able to knowledgeably select a new HVAC system for your home as well as the best contractor.
Your heating and cooling system has an important job. It keeps your home comfortable by regulating the internal temperature. Do you know how HVAC works, or how to tell when you need an air conditioning replacement? We’ve covered the basics of HVAC upgrades in this infographic.
Find out how HVAC systems work in homes, when to replace your ac unit, and use our HVAC maintenance checklist to keep your system running efficiently. You’ll also learn what to look for when you’re ready to shop for a replacement, including how to decipher HVAC efficiency ratings. Get started below! We all want to know when to replace our air conditioner. But first, it’s important to learn what you need to know about HVAC systems, like how they work. There are a lot of moving parts. Familiarizing yourself with key components can help you feel more confident in your decision.
A thermostat, furnace, evaporator coil, condensing unit, vents, and refrigerant lines work together to properly heat and cool your home. If you hear strange noises, notice increasing utility costs, or notice that the temperature of your home never feels quite right, it is time to consider a new heating and cooling system as illustrated in the above HVAC infographic. The benefits of upgrading to a new HVAC system include:. Possible utility bill savings. A more comfortable home. Possible increase in home resale value.
Fresh, healthy air in your home Hopefully after reading our guide you have learned all about, including what efficiency ratings to look for: SEER, EER, MERV, HSPF, AFUE. The higher the numbers, the more efficient!
Share this Guide to a Happy HVAC on your website by copying and pasting the code below: The content of this blog is intended for informational purposes only. Renovate America provides no endorsement and makes no representations as to accuracy, reliability, completeness, suitability or validity of any information or content on, distributed through or linked, downloaded or accessed from this site. This blog is subject to the additional terms found at.
Gas appliances are categorized so that the proper venting system can be selected. There are four categories based upon the pressure produced in the vent and whether or not the flue gas temperatures create condensation.
You'll commonly find Category I and Category IV furnaces and boilers in U.S. Category I does not produce condensate. Category IV operates with a positive vent pressure and condenses flue gases, and their flue vent pipes are made of PVC plastic. Type B vents are designed for venting non-condensing gas appliances equipped with a draft hood or fan-assisted appliances with a non-positive vent pressure.
Heating and cooling equipment and appliances must be sized in accordance with the Manual S and Manual J of the Air Conditioning Contractors of America. Combustion air is necessary for the complete combustion of fuel gas, dilution of flue gases, and ventilation of gas-fired appliances and the space in which they are installed. A lack of combustion air can cause the incomplete combustion of fuel, malfunction of an appliance, and spillage of flue gases. Gas-fired appliances often compete with other equipment and systems for available combustion air and makeup air through a house. Supplying makeup air can help natural-draft appliances by compensating the effect of the powered exhaust appliances and equipment in the house, including fireplaces, exhaust fans, ventilation systems, clothes dryers and similar appliances and equipment. There are five methods of supplying combustion air listed in the 2015 IRC G2407, ranging from simple to complex:.
all indoor air,. all outdoor air,. combination indoor and outdoor air,. mechanical combustion air supply, and. engineered design. These methods of supplying combustion air applies mostly to natural-draft atmospheric-burner-design appliances and Category 1 fan-assisted appliances. Category 2, 3, and 4 appliances must be provided with combustion air as required by the manufacturer's instructions.
METHODS OF COMBUSTION AIR Indoor Combustion Air The required volume of indoor air to be used as combustion air is determined in five different ways according to 2017 IRC G2407.5, except when the infiltration rate is known to be less than 0.40 air exchanges per hour (ACH). The terms 'confined space', 'unconfined space', and 'unusually tight construction' are no longer used. Require volume of indoor air is determined by two methods, unless the known infiltration rate is less than 0.40 ACH:.
one is based upon the actual air infiltration rate measured in the house, and. the other is based on the familiar 50 cubic feet per 1,000 Btu/h. Openings to Connect Indoor Spaces Where openings are used to connect adjacent indoor spaces on the same floor for the purpose of increasing the available volume of air, the familiar high and low openings may be provided. The openings must be permanently open, and each opening must be at least 100 square inches in size. One opening must be within 12 inches of the top and one opening 12 inches of the bottom of the enclosure.
Outdoor Combustion Air Opening Openings directly connected to the outdoor air or to spaces that are naturally ventilated with outdoor air, such as crawlspaces or attics, are acceptable. The combustion air openings should be located to prevent blockage. The opening could be one-permanent opening or two-permanent high-low openings. There are various types of opening combinations that may include indoor and outdoor spaces to supply combustion air. Not Required Home inspectors are not required to calculate the air for combustion, ventilation, and dilution of flue gases for appliances. Makeup air is needed where clothes dryers, kitchen exhaust fans, chimneys, and other exhaust and ventilation systems may interfere with the appliance operation. Not enough makeup air may cause negative pressures to develop and may interfere with appliance venting, creating a loss of draft at appliance vents and chimneys or causing combustion byproducts to backdraft into the house.
Gas-fired appliances are often in competition with other systems for the available combustion air and makeup air that flows through the house building envelope. And natural draft appliances could starve for air. Supplying makeup air will help prevent negative pressures with a space from developing.
Note the following systems that may deplete combustion air: bathroom exhaust fan at 80 CFM, range hood at 100 CFM, clothes dryer at 200 CFM, and a fireplace chimney at 600 CFM. Corrugated Stainless Steel Tubing (CSST) is observed in the garage and under the deck.
There is a flexible connector at the HVAC equipment in the furnace room. CSST should not be confused with natural gas appliance flexible connectors.
Flexible connectors are used to attach moveable appliances to the gas piping system. CSST is typically routed beneath, through or alongside floor joists in the basement, inside interior wall cavities and on top of ceiling joists in attic spaces. CSST piping systems must be installed in accordance with the terms of their approval, the conditions of listing, the manufacturer’s instructions, and the IRC. CSST is a flexible, stainless steel pipe used to supply natural gas and propane in residential and commercial buildings. It is often coated with a yellow or black plastic coating.
CSST should not be confused with flexible gas appliance connectors that join an appliance to the gas supply line of a house. CSST is safe when properly installed. For more information about CSST, please refer to the.
Observation The gas vent pipe from the water heater tank is improperly sloped. There is a disconnection at the elbow. This vent pipe is connected to the shared vent stack with the furnace.
Cloth duct tape is not permitted to be installed on fuel-burning appliance vent pipes. Many municipalities do not allow metal foil tape either. Single wall vent pipe must be connected with 3 sheet metal screws at each joint. Single wall flue vents require a six-inch minimum of clearance to combustibles, and B-vent (double wall) requires minimum 1-inch clearance. The joints, seams and connections in metallic and non-metalllic ducts must be securerly fastened and sealed with welds, gaskets, mastics, liquid sealants, or tapes.
Tapes and mastics should be listed and marked with 'UL 181 A-P' for tape, '181 A-M' for mastic or '181 A-H' for heat-sensitive tape. '181 B-FX' is for flexible ducts. Crimp joints for round metallic jucts should have a 1-inch lap and at least 3 sheet-metal screws or rivets at the joint. Ducts require adequate support at regular intervals.
. Cookie Consent We use cookies to improve your website experience.
To learn about our use of cookies and how you can manage your cookie settings, please see our. By continuing to use the website, you consent to our use of cookies. Welcome to HVAC-Talk.com, a non-DIY site and the ultimate Source for HVAC Information & Knowledge Sharing for the industry professional! Here you can join over 150,000 HVAC Professionals & enthusiasts from around the world discussing all things related to HVAC/R. You are currently viewing as a NON-REGISTERED guest which gives you limited access to view discussions To gain full access to our forums you must; for a free account. As a registered Guest you will be able to:. Participate in over 40 different forums and search/browse from nearly 3 million posts.
Post photos, respond to polls and access other special features. Gain access to our free AOP (Ask a Professional) Section to get real answers for your questions. All this and much more is available to you absolutely free when you; for an account, so today! We suggest not registering using an AT&T, BellSouth, AOL or Yahoo email address. If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please. I admit I have not been involved much with Tridium so I am unclear exactly what is needed to create some cool custom graphics to help brand our graphics to our customers. I need someone to explain using very broad terms what languages or formats for images and animations that are used to create my own.
For example I have a current need for a nice simple energy dashboard with a couple of dials and a bar graph, but I don't want the colors and images to look like they are from 1990. Feel free to PM to get my cell number and we can talk for 5- 10 minutes. I admit I have not been involved much with Tridium so I am unclear exactly what is needed to create some cool custom graphics to help brand our graphics to our customers. I need someone to explain using very broad terms what languages or formats for images and animations that are used to create my own.
For example I have a current need for a nice simple energy dashboard with a couple of dials and a bar graph, but I don't want the colors and images to look like they are from 1990. Feel free to PM to get my cell number and we can talk for 5- 10 minutes. Thanks.Just to give you the rundown. Most of the 3rd party products that I have come across that do all the fancy graphs and gauges and all of the other eyecandy, use Flash. Flash was good at one point, but since everyone is migrating to use more and more mobile devices to access a system, Flash is losing popularity. Flash is very picky about what OS it will run on.
To my knowledge, you can't install it on an Apple product. So the problem with Flash is compatibility. From what I can tell, HTML/Javascript is the best solution. Javascript runs only in a web browser, unlike Flash where you have to install it on your device to utilize it. With the creation of Bajascript, Niagara can serve up data to Javascript, then be populated on an HTML page fairly easy. It's not the easiest to learn, but well worth it in the end. As klrogers mentioned, the Tridium guys created kitPxGauges.
It works great and I have used it alot myself. The biggest downfall about it is that it's a Java component. Basically, if your using an hx profile, browsing a page that has one of those gauges on it.it won't render. The hx profiles render the Px images as html. So that really causes problems with mobile devices. You can create exactly what your wanting to with kitPxGauges, I can even help you.just remember that it's useless to some mobile devices. Just to give you the rundown.
Most of the 3rd party products that I have come across that do all the fancy graphs and gauges and all of the other eyecandy, use Flash. Flash was good at one point, but since everyone is migrating to use more and more mobile devices to access a system, Flash is losing popularity. Flash is very picky about what OS it will run on. To my knowledge, you can't install it on an Apple product. So the problem with Flash is compatibility. From what I can tell, HTML/Javascript is the best solution. Javascript runs only in a web browser, unlike Flash where you have to install it on your device to utilize it.
With the creation of Bajascript, Niagara can serve up data to Javascript, then be populated on an HTML page fairly easy. It's not the easiest to learn, but well worth it in the end. As klrogers mentioned, the Tridium guys created kitPxGauges. It works great and I have used it alot myself. The biggest downfall about it is that it's a Java component. Basically, if your using an hx profile, browsing a page that has one of those gauges on it.it won't render. The hx profiles render the Px images as html.
So that really causes problems with mobile devices. You can create exactly what your wanting to with kitPxGauges, I can even help you.just remember that it's useless to some mobile devices.Where can I get the kitPxGuages? It's not in the workbenches that I currently have. Quick Navigation. Site Areas. Forums.
Comments are closed.
|
Details
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |